Tools: Circular Saw, Jig Saw, Powered Screwdriver, Screwdriver, C-Clamps, Hammer, Wood file, Allen Wrench, Ruler, T-Square, Utility Knife

Wood: 3/4" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard), one 4X8 ft sheet, $19 at Home Depot. You only end up using about half of the sheet.

Cut: 15"X15" = 2, 15"X13.5" = 2, 13.5"X13.5" = 5, 1"X1"X12" = 4

Parts: Sub driver, Sub amp, 2" allen head bolts with matching t-nuts = 8, 1 3/4 drywall screws= box of 50, wood glue, caulk, rubber sealant strip for sealing driver to cabinet, Polyfill, two banana connectors, 4 rubber feet.

Step 1: Take your two 15" x 15" and two 13.5" x 13.5" and make some "sandwich" endcaps by placing a 13.5" in the middle of a 15" and glueing together. As always allow plenty of time for your glue to dry!!

Step 2: Make sure all your boards or "walls" fit together before assembly. The diagram below is a rough idea on how it fits together.

Step 3: If everything fits properly it's time to cut the corner indents on your 13" x 13" brace. These indents will allow room for the corner 1" x 1" x 12" butt lengths. These pieces will run along the corners of all four walls for additional support and to make extra sure there are no leaks in the side walls. You should also cut the holes in your center brace. I made sure to have the center hole large enough that I can get my hand through it and access the back side of the driver mounts. This allowed me to easily get the T-nuts to take when installing the driver. Otherwise if you try and screw in the driver mounting bolts without physically holding the T-nuts they may be pushed out (VERY ANNOYING!!). This enclosure then has 1.5" endcaps and .75" side walls with corner and a center brace. Outer dimensions: 15" X 15" X 15" with an internal volume of roughly 34 liters (little over 1 sqare foot).

Step 4: Cut holes for driver and amp in the oppropiate endcaps.

Step 5: Verify that everything fits, driver in driver hole, amp in amp opening, etc.

Step 6: Place driver/amp in its opening and mark mounting hole locations.

Step 7: Drill mounting holes for driver/amp.

Step 8: I decided to create some "channels" between the mounting holes for the driver. These "channels" should help air flow from the back of the driver. See Picture below. I simply placed the T-nuts in their positions and then used a wood file.

Step 9: If you have enough clamps (there never seems like enough) you can assemble everything at once. I didn't have this option.

Step 10: Pre-drill all your screw holes!! I screwed all the panels together. Then unscrewed, applied liberal amounts of wood glue and then screwed it all back together.

Step 11: After two days of drying I removed all the screws. Filled all the holes with clear epoxy and caulked all the inside seems.

Step 12: Sand all rough edges and "not great" butt joints.

Step 13: Install rubber feet.

Step 14: Apply rubber sealant strip to inside of driver.

Step 15: Mount driver, see step 3 for T-nut hint.

Step 16: The Lambda driver had 5-way binding posts. The amp comes with slide on connectors. Not compatible. Clip off connectors, crimp on banana clips. Plug into the driver.

Step 17: Insert Polyfill. I fluffed it up and filled the whole box.

Step 18: Install amp.

Step 19: Finish as desired. I'm still working (thinking) on this step.

If you notice anything missing or confusing on this page please let me know. rehpohka@mctc.mnscu.edu